Sunday, September 29, 2013

Fun in the mud!

Well, we just got a much needed deluge of rain yesterday. The property was starting to look like a swamp. Today, the kids went to check if the pond we are starting to dig, had filled up. At first we were hesitant to let them play in it, but several "puppy dog" faces later....



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Wednesday, September 25, 2013

The beginnings of a pond...

Some of the things we are doing to prepare for the unexpected, is to make sure we have multiple food sources. We decided it wouldn't hurt any to dig a pond and raise Tilapia and Catfish. We may try other fish too depending on compatibility and environment requirements.

We will update our progress as we go. It may take some time though, as we have decided to dig it by hand. Won't hurt to gain a little muscle and exercise either. :)

DAY 1 (09-24-2013)



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Friday, September 20, 2013

The Odd Egg Out...

Eggs, they are a staple in most peoples diet. With a family of 7, we have come to learn the importance of raising egg laying chickens.

For one, the eggs our hens lay are better tasting and have darker yolks then commercial bought eggs from the store. (a deeper color is indicative of a higher quality, more nutrient dense diet) They also have thicker shells due to the quality of the feed we provide them.

Two, you know where they came from. Many commercial operations raise their chickens in close quarters under less then desirable conditions. We have learned that although the egg carton may be be labeled "Cage Free", it is more than a technical term rather than the picture we all have of hens running around in a large open fenced area.

                                                     (commercial "free range" chickens)

Three, it is fun! The kids love going out to check to see if we have any new eggs to collect. It's kinda' like having a year around Easter Egg Hunt. Every now and then we get an extra suprise when our White Jersey Giant lays an extremely large "doubler", which is what we call a double yolked egg. (see photo below)


Now, while we may be fortunate enough to live in a rural setting with several acres, many people in urban areas are turning to raising their own chickens as well. More and more cities are lifting restrictions on raising backyard chickens. All it takes is a short trip to the local hardware store. Chicken coops can be built with chicken wire, wood, or even lightweight PVC plumbing pipe. Youtube is a great place to get ideas for building your own chicken coop. You can also do some searching in Google, and find some other good tips to building one.

You don't have to be a carpenter or architect to make a decent shelter for chickens. They don't really pay much attention to the "aesthetic" aspects of their home, so if it is a little crooked or lopsided it won't matter. Here are some great links from around the web on how to build your own chicken coop.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/know-how_Chicken-Coops_build-a-chicken-coop

http://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/easy-backyard-chicken-coops.aspx

http://cleancoops.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=31&Itemid=37

http://www.pvcplans.com/pvc-pastured-poultry-pen.htm

http://www.backyardchickens.com/atype/2/Coops/page/

http://smallfarm.about.com/od/farminfrastructure/ss/sbscoopbuild.htm

http://thetanglednest.com/2010/02/our-urban-chicken-coop-plan/



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Saturday, September 14, 2013

FREE Survival ebooks list.

This is a list of survival & preparedness eBooks we have been seeing around the web. Enjoy!




First Aid

Where-There-is-No-Dentist-Murray-Dickson.pdf
Where-There-Is-No-Doctor.pdf
survival-personal-wilderness-medical-kit.pdf
Wound Closure Manual
Full-First-Aid-Manual-FM-2111.pdf
Emergency War Surgery
Ditch-Medicine-Advanced-Field-Procedures-For-Emergencies-1993.pdf


Manuals



Plants

 
 
Knots


More Books and Manuals

US-Marines-Close-Quarters-Combat-Manual-FMFM-07.pdf
US-Marine-Corps-Hand-to-Hand-Combat.pdf
US-Army-Combatives-handtohand-combat-FM-325-150
Pressure-Points-Military-Hand-to-Hand-Combat-Guide
Practical-Unarmed-Combat-by-Moshe-Feldenkrais.pdf
Navy-Seal-Physical-Fitness-Guide.pdf
Marine-Martial-Arts-Training-
Krav-Maga-Pressure-Points-Military-Hand-to-Hand-Combat-Guide
( Hand to Hand: Martial Arts ) Aikido ( revised )
Get-Tough
Combat-Conditioning-Manual-JiuJitsu-Lt-Col-RE-Hanley-USMC.pdf
USMC-Kill-or-Get-Killed
1999_Dutch_Oven_Cookbook.pdf
bushcraft leather work PDF
boyscout cookbook PDF
The Back Country Recipe Book
Australian Bushcraft PDF
Flintknapping PDF book
The-Ten-Bushcraft-Books.pdf
The-Book-of-Camplore-and-Woodcraft-Dan-Beard.pdf
Shelters-Shacks-Shanties-Daniel-Carter-Beard
Foxfire-One.pdf
Foxfire-Two.pdf
Foxfire-Three.pdf
Bushcraft-Scouting-Woodlore-Notes.pdf
Woodsman-Ship.pdf
Vegetable-Garden-Encyclopedia.pdf
Guide 5, Preparing and Canning Poultry, Red Meats, and Seafood
The-Unofficial-MacGyver-HowTo-Handbook-Revised-2nd-Edition.pdf
The New Complete Book of Food
The-Making-of-Leather-by-Procter-Makingofleather00procrich.pdf
The Jerky Chef
The complete guide to home carpentry
The Back Country Recipe Book
The-Baby-Food.pdf
The Journals of Lewis and Clark by Meriwether Lewis.pdf
Tecumseh-Service-Manual
Steal-This-Book
Solar Dehydrator.PDF
SmallScale-Food-Drying-Technologies
Secret-Hiding-Places.pdf
Radio-Monitoring-a-How-to-Guide.pdf
Preserving-Food-Drying-Fruits-And-Vegetables-
Guide 6, Preparing and Canning Fermented Foods and Pickled Veg
Practical Guide to Free Energy DEVICES
Native-Berry-Recipes
Metal-Forming(2).pdf
Making-your-own-Desiccant-Packs-for-longterm-firearm-storage
Joy of Canning
Jerky-Recipes.pdf
Jerky.pdf
Indian-Food-Recipes
Hunting-With-a-Bow-and-Arrow
How to make common things
How-to-Make-a-Plastic-Covered-Solar-Still.pdf
How-to-Build-a-Solar-Food-Dryer
How-to-Build-a-Solar-Crop-Dryer.pdf
How-to-Be-Invisible
Homemade-Tracer-Ammo.pdf
Herbal-PDRsmall.pdf
Herbal-Manual-.pdf
Healing-Pets-With-Alternative-Medicine.pdf
Getaway-Driving-Techniques-for-Escape-and-Evasion-Ronald-George-Eriksen-II-Loompanics-Unlimited
Food-Storage-Recipes.pdf
Food-Storage-for-Survival.pdf
Food Storage Cooking School
Food-in-Medieval-Times.pdf
Food-for-Fifty.pdf
Fertilizers-How-to-Make-Them-by-Gregory-Fertilizers
FEMA-Emergency-Gassifer-1.pdf
Fabulous-Frugal-Food-Bills.pdf
Every Step in Canning
Essentials of Archery
Electro-Motors.pdf
Drying-Fruits-and-Vegetables
DOD Electromagnetic Pulse Protection Manual
Dictionary-of-Food
DECLINATION DIAGRAM.doc
Culinary-Herbs-Their-Cultivation-Harvesting-Curing-and-Uses-by-Kains-M-G
Cookbook-Survival-Anarchists-Cook-Book
Complete-Guide-to-Home-Canning-Nutrition.pdf
CIA-Simple-Sabatoge-Field-Manual-1.pdf
CIA-Lock-Picking-Field-Operative-Training-Manual-1.pdf
Canning-Processing-Charts.pdf
Canning-Principles
Canning-Meat-Wild-Game-Poultry-Fish-Safely-
Bushcraft-Canadian-Scout-Manual-PO-403
Build-Your-Own-Classic-Crossbow.pdf
Big-Book-of-Homemade-Weapons.pdf
Beverage-Plants.pdf
29811188-Knotting-knots
27471061-American-Boys-Book-of-Camp-Lore-and-Woodcraft.pdf
27469341-Boys-Book-of-Hunting-and-Fishing-1916-8944101.pdf
23344401-Ultimate-Guide-to-Wilderness-Living.pdf
23307788-Raw-Foods-Bible
11999777-The-Practical-Poultry-Keeper-1904.pdf
5493097-Dry-Farming.pdf
Home-Dried-Food.pdf

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Brewing Mead, some useful recipes...

Compliments of GreyDragon.org

                                      http://www.greydragon.org/brewing/mead.html


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Thru Sunday 09-15 we are offering a 10% Discount on "all" supplies. http://daretoprepare.net

Http://daretoprepare.net
                                         
                                      Enter the Voucher Code: PREPARE2013
                           (you will see the voucher box on the cart checkout page)

 

                                  

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Thursday, September 12, 2013

Our new Youtube channel.

We will be uploading videos to our Youtube channel demonstrating different sustainability and survival practices, along with some everyday funny clips on the mini-farm.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNcO8ah4i2ctnnImgPeywpQ
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Monday, September 9, 2013

Water storage is essential to your survival...





Home Water Storage and Emergency Disinfection


Amount of Water to Store

The Department of Environmental Quality, Division of Drinking Water recommends water storage of 1 gallon per person per day for 2 weeks. This is based on 2 quarts or ½ gallon per person per day for drinking water and food pre parathion, and another 2 quarts or ½ gallon per person per day for other limited uses such as hand washing, teeth brushing and dishwashing. (This is a total of 14 gallons per person for 2 weeks.)
A normally active person needs to drink at least 2 quarts (1/2 gallon) of water each day. Hot environments and intense physical activity can double that amount. Children, nursing mothers and people suffering from disease or injury may need more water. Immune compromised people may want to take extra precautions to minimize their risk in an emergency.



Supplies that are used for water purification and storage

  • Food grade containers for storage of water
  • Funnel
  • Filters: coffee filters, clean cheesecloth, teal towel, or pillowcases
  • Eyedropper
  • Unscented chlorine bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite)
  • Large clean pan with lid for boiling water
  • If storing water in a 55 gallon drum, a pump is needed
  • Purification device, back packer filters
  • Camping stove to boil water

 

Storage Containers

Water should be stored in containers manufactured for food use.
  • A 5 gallon heavy duty plastic container with spigot to dispense water (weighs approximately 42 pounds when full).
  • A 6 gallon Mylar water storage bag, impermeable to odor, gas and light, contained in a cardboard box for easy stacking. Durable (weights about 50 pounds).
  • A 2 liter plastic drink container with screw on lid.
  • A 55 gallon drum that has not stored toxic materials (weighs 460 pounds when full).
  • A thermos type container.
  • A 1 gallon size glass jug (padded with newspaper).
  • Water “canned” in regular canning jars and processed for 20 minutes (repack in cardboard box and pad with newspapers).

Never use any containers that have held toxic substances

Plastic bleach bottles and gallon milk containers are generally manufactured with non-durable plastic that promotes biodegradability and is undesirable for long term water storage. Water stored in non-durable plastic containers may become toxic over time from breakdown products from the plastic container walls.

The disposable, plastic milk bottle is thin-walled and tends to develop leaks easily. Liquid chlorine bleach bottles are made of thicker polyethylene plastic and may be used for water storage if the empty bottles are thoroughly rinsed with hot water and allowed to dry. However, the use of bleach bottles for water storage is not recommended, because of the potential danger of accidentally drinking bleach instead of water. If bleach bottles are used for water storage, remove the bleach label and write “WATER” indelibly across the bottle. Children may mistakenly associate the size and color of bleach bottles with acceptable sources for drinking water and mistakenly drink bleach. As such, bottles must be positively identified, and bleach must be kept out of the reach of children.
If plastic containers are used, care should be taken to assure that they are made of plastic approved for food contact by the Federal Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Polyethylene plastic is approved for food contact and is commonly used for containers of various sizes, including large 55 gallon drums. Certain types of plastic containers are not intended for food contact (such as vinyl plastic waterbeds or trash containers) and may leach undesirable chemicals into stored water. Leaching from approved plastics into water is negligible.


Preparing Water for Storage

Stored water must be clean water. Use the best quality available for water storage. Water must be from a system with a Division of Drinking Water “Approved” rating. Water stored in thoroughly clean plastic or glass containers can be chemically disinfected for long term treating each gallon with 4 to 5 drops of liquid chlorine bleach (Clorox or Purex type bleaches, containing 4% to 6% sodium hypochlorite). One teaspoon of bleach disinfects 5 gallons of water. Allow 20 to 30 minutes before drinking. The level of treatment will prevent growth of microorganisms during storage. Most municipal water storages are already disinfected so no additional treatment is necessary. Fill clean food grade container with tap water and screw on lids.


Storage Conditions

Store water containers away from cleaning supplies, fertilizers and other products with strong odors. These odors could be absorbed by the storage containers and transferred to the water.
Water stored in plastic containers should be filled to the top so there is no air space and should be stored in a cool, dry location away from petroleum and insecticide products, and away from strong odor food or perfumed products.
Vapors from these substances could permeate the plastic and affect the water. Thick walled polyethylene containers are significantly less permeable to vapors than are thin walled containers.


Use of Stored Water

Once the container is opened, use the water rather than restoring it. If stored water has a flat taste, pour it back and forth between two containers several times. Rotate water every 1 to 2 years.

Store as much water as possible, more than the bare minimum (especially in desert and hot climates). Be certain to label each container so there will be no questions about its contents. Include the date and information on the method of disinfection used.


Emergency Inside Water Sources
  • Water heaters.
  • Soft water tanks.
  • Melted ice cubes.
  • Toilet tank (not bowl) provided no chemical sanitizers are used.
If a disaster catches you without a stored supply of clean water, you can use the water in your house piping system, your hot water heater and even ice cubes. Know the location of your house’s water shut off valve. In a disaster in which your water company’s supply of water to your house has been interrupted (e.g., broken water mains in the streets), shut off water supply into your house to prevent backflow of contaminated water. To use the water in your piping, let air into the plumbing by turning on the faucet in your house at the highest level. A small amount of water will trickle out. Then, leaving the highest faucet on, obtain water from the lowest faucet in the house.
To use water in your hot water heater, first turn off the electricity or gas supply, and then close off the cold water supply line to the water heater. Open the drain at the bottom of the tank and start the water flowing by turning on a hot water faucet somewhere else in the house. Collect the water containers and disinfect each gallon with 4 – 5 drops of liquid bleach. Allow 20 to 30 minutes before drinking. (Note: If the water is cloudy and/or from an unsafe origin, 16 drops of liquid chlorine bleach is recommended.) You can use water in the tank of your toilet (not the bowl). Disinfect as with water from the water heater.
Some water sources may have chemical contamination that makes them unacceptable for drinking. For example, waterbed mattresses usually contain organic chemicals in the wall plastic and biocidal chemicals in the water to prevent algal, fungal and bacterial growth. These various chemicals can make the water unsafe to drink. During an emergency such water may be used for hand washing and laundering.


Emergency Outside Water Sources
  • Rain water.
  • Ponds and rivers.
  • Untested wells and springs.
  • Garden hose
Some emergencies may warrant obtaining water from sources outside the home. The hazards of using water, including ice and snow, of unknown quality needs to be carefully weighed against the obvious life sustaining need for drinking water. Even crystal clear, mountain stream water can be contaminated with disease causing parasites such as giardia. Sterilization or disinfection can reduce the microbiological hazard of water of unknown quality, but there is no safe method for reducing the chemical hazard (e.g., toxic chemicals and radioactive materials) of water of unknown quality. If water is cloudy, chemical disinfection must be supplemented by some kind of filtration or heat sterilization (20 to 30 minutes of boiling) to assure complete destruction of disease causing organisms. (Note: If water is cloudy and/or from an unsafe origin, 16 drops of chlorine bleach is recommended.)
In addition to having a bad odor and taste, contaminated water can contain microorganisms that cause diseases such as dysentery, typhoid and hepatitis. You should disinfect all water of uncertain purity before using it for drinking, food preparation or hygiene.
There are many ways to disinfect drinking water. None of the listed methods are perfect. The methods described below will kill most microbes, but they will remove very few chemical contaminants. Before water is disinfected, let any suspended particles settle to the bottom of the container, or strain the water through layers of paper towels, filters such as coffee, clean cheese cloth, or clean cloth into a clean container.
Better clarification can be obtained by drawing cloudy water through a “capillary siphon”.
A capillary siphon can be constructed by rolling a small, clean, terry cloth towel into a long roll. Place one end of the roll into a container of cloudy water. Drape the rest of the roll over the edge of the container so that it hangs free from the container’s sidewall. Be sure the free hanging (dry) end of the towel extends below the water level by several inches. Place a clean container below the free hanging end. Soon water from the upper container will wet the whole towel as the capillary action draws water through the towel to the lower container. With cloudiness removed, chemical disinfection can be more effective in destroying disease causing organisms.


Methods of Disinfection
 

Boiling

Boiling is the safest method of disinfecting water. It is preferred over any method of chemical disinfection because most disease causing microorganisms cannot survive the heat of the sterilizing boil. Water must be heated to boiling and held in a vigorous rolling boil for 5 minutes minimum (preferably 10 to 20 minutes). Let the water cool before drinking. Boiled water will taste better if you put oxygen back into it by pouring the water back and forth between two clean containers. This will also improve the taste of stored water.


Chemical Disinfection

Chemical disinfection of water is an acceptable alternative to heat sterilizing, but only if the water is clear. Disease causing organisms, such as viruses, can “hide” inside the microscopic dirt particles that cause cloudiness in water. They can thereby escape the action of the disinfecting chemical and remain capable of producing disease.

Chemical disinfection is less reliable than disinfection via boiling because of several different factors. For example, the more organic matter there is in the water, the more chemicals are required. The colder the water is, the longer the “contact time” (the length of time between addition of disinfecting chemicals to the water and use of the water) should be. Additional factors affecting the success of disinfection includes the amount and type of chemicals used, water pH (how acidic or basic the water is), and types of disease causing organisms in the water.


Liquid Bleach 

You can use household liquid bleach to kill microorganisms. Use only regular household liquid bleach that contains 5.25% sodium hypochlorite. Do not use scented bleaches, color safe bleaches or bleaches with added cleaners. Each gallon of water should be treated with 4 – 5 drops of liquid chlorine bleach or 16 drops of liquid chlorine bleach if the water is cloudy. This is just under ¼ of a teaspoon per gallon. One teaspoon of bleach disinfects 5 gallons of water. Treated water should be thoroughly mixed and allowed to stand for 30 minutes before using. A slight chlorine odor should be detectable in the water. If it is not, repeat the dosage and let it stand another 15 minutes before using. Treated water may have a slight chlorine taste, but this is additional evidence of safety.

Since liquid chlorine bleach loses strength over time, only fresh bleach should be used for water disinfection. For bleach that is 1 to 2 years old, the dosage should be doubled. Bleach older than two years should not be used unless absolutely necessary because of uncertainty as to how much the active ingredients have deteriorated. 


Iodine Tablets 

Iodine tablets have the advantage of being more effective against amoebic dysentery cysts and certain other intestinal parasite cysts than chlorine-based disinfectants such as sodium hypochlorite or Halazone tablets. Sporting good stores commonly carry iodine tables. Be certain iodine tablets are fresh, since they lose effectiveness with age. Fresh tablets have a gray color. They have a shelf life of approximately 3–5 years unopened. The label should show an EPA registration number. Often iodine tablet containers carry labels recommending restrictions on use by pregnant or lactating women. Check the label before purchasing the tablets. Follow instructions on the label, mixing thoroughly and allowing adequate “contact time”. The iodine tablet should impart a light yellow to tan color to the water and a slight odor.


Halazone Tablets
 
Halazone tablets (4 dichlorosulfamyl benzoic acid) for emergency water disinfection are commonly carried by pharmacies and drug stores. The label should show an EPA registration number. Be certain to note the expiration date since the shelf life is only about 2 years. According to the manufacturer: “It is important that the containers are tightly closed to prevent the absorption of moisture from the air. If decomposition of the tablets should occur, they take on a yellowish appearance, have a strong objectionable odor, and of course, should not be used”.
Chemical disinfection, liquid bleach, iodine tablets, and Halazone tablets will not remove cryptosporidium.

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